Hitchhike #1
Main
purpose of this trip was Drill & Chill Climbing & Highlining
festival in Bosnia, near Banja Luka. The festival was supposed to
begin on the 7th
of September, so based on my previous hitchhiking experience I
estimated it will work just fine if I set off from my hometown
(Bielsko-Biała, south of Poland) on the 4th.
However, my journey seemed to have started under an unfriendly star.
The evening before I had stayed up late in order to write up a
chapter of a paper summarizing an astronomical internship I did in
August. And then, after at least 2 hours of work, I was so sleepy
that I accidentally closed the file without saving it, losing all the
work. I was totally pissed, drinking some alcohol to alleviate my
rage. As a result I overslept, and instead of setting off early
morning as I had planned, when I started catching my first ride it
was already past noon. Haven't even started, and already set back by
half a day! And once on the road I didn't get a very good start
either, first I was kicked out from a gas station and I had to walk
through two villages to find a good hitchhiking spot, and then in two
rides I got no farther than the next bigger town called Żywiec...
about 20 km ahead. There I stood at the entrance to the big road for
about one and half an hour without success, eventually I walked to
find a better spot, where I finally got some luck and caught a ride
to Slovakian border almost immediately. There was little traffic on
the border, but eventually some guys stopped, and took me all the way
to Banská Bystrica, big step ahead, but when they dropped me it was
already dark, and raining.
Nevertheless,
it was still early enough that somebody should be going somewhere
farther, so I decided to give it a try and take a walk to a big gas
station, and this is where fate finally faced me with a friendlier
face. I got a ride from the first guy I asked, and all the way to Banská Štiavnica, a beautiful town in
an old volcanic crater,
which, although off the main road, was much more south. We
were also lucky to see some wildlife on the way – three wild pigs
crossing the road in front of us and just a moment later a stag
walking the other way
– reportedly
an above average sight even in this woody region of Slovakia. But
the miracle came when he said that he can offer me a place to sleep:
he
worked in a small hotel and they had a room which hasn't been cleaned
up yet, so it was free for the night. Magnificent! I was able to
comfortably cook myself a dinner in a kitchen, have a nice warm
shower, sleep in a bed, plug in my laptop and write this cursed
chapter again (from this time on paying a lot of attention to make
proper backups). It was such a nice gift from this guy, it totally
reminded me why is it worthwhile to
hitchhike
(which I kinda forgot when the beginnings where as daunting as they
where), that the kindness of some people You can meet totally makes
up for all the toils of travel.
Hotel room in Banská Štiavnica totally for free! Hitchhiking is awesome!
The corridor in this hotel was really cool
I
was tired after the day and at first I intended to go to bed soon,
but following the suggestion of this guy, I took the advantage of the
opportunity to leave all the heavy luggage in the room, and set off
to explore the town. In the end I didn't walk
around the streets too much, but I ended
up walking uphill
(wonderful view on the way, with the lights of a castle and a few
churches) to the woods above the town. There I found a small
artificial lake and, being totally on my own and filled with positive
energy, I decided to take off all my clothes and go for a truly
unique night swim. Shortly afterwards I found an abandoned house, so
obviously I didn't leave it unexplored.
During the night walk, behind me the artificial lake I swam in
During the night walk, behind me the artificial lake I swam in
Interesting mosaic in the urbex I found in Banská Štiavnica
Setting
off on the next day went better, I woke up quite early, and although
I still had to walk a lot to go sufficiently out of Banská Štiavnica,
once I did, reaching a gas station north of Budapest in three rides
went fairly smooth. The plan was to head west from there, go around
Balaton, and then the way straight south would lead me to Banja Luka.
But nobody would take me in that direction so eventually I went with
one guy to the center of Budapest. It was a really hilarious ride,
because the driver was young, he spoke English badly bud just enough
to make some conversation, and halfway through he gave me a beer.
Unsure what to, I decided to drink it right away, the problem was
that I drank it too fast and he offered me another one.
So,
I ended up in the middle of Budapest, in the middle of the day,
totally dizzy after two beers, and I knew that a walk to the entrance to
the highway would be long, and asking drivers for a ride while not
being sober – even harder. Therefore I was relieved when I
accidentally walked into Budapest Keleti, the main train station, and
I decided to help myself with a train to Pécs, on the south of
Hungary. On the train I was able to rest, sober up, and this way I
made up what I fell behind with by starting after noon the day
before. From Pécs I managed to get one last ride to Szigetvár, where I
slept in my hammock under a branch of a rather filthy tree that was
really hard to climb with a heavy backpack (yeah, quite a step down
from the night before). There
I naturally woke up at dawn, and the hitchhike to Banja Luka went
fairly smooth, in the evening I was already on the climbing gym in
the town, where I was allowed to sleep and I met first few friends
from the festival.
Cows on a field next to which I slept in Szigetvár
Already in Croatia, it's getting nice, warm and sunny
Shower time! It was hot and I couldn't catch a ride, so having a refreshing shower under a bridge was a perfect idea. Pity I accidentally left there my shower gel.
Dubrovar. There's no such thing as bad time for tea :-)
Drill
& Chill
I
think it won’t be an exaggeration to say that of all the big
highline festivals I’ve been to so far, I liked D&C the most.
While big enough to have this special atmosphere and vibes of a
proper festival, and to meet a lot of old and new friends, it was also
small enough to retain all the pros of an unofficial meeting: you
didn’t have to rush for the lines early in the morning, lest you
won’t get to session enough - you could come whenever you felt like
it, and you’d never (except maybe for the last few days when more
slackliners came) have to wait too long for your turn. And you were
free to come whenever you liked it, be it a night session or
whatever, there were no official opening and closing hours with
rigging team checking every line, instead it was an equal
responsibility of every participating highliner to make sure that
everything is safe, anchor points are ok, and so on. Also, it wasn’t
just a highline festival, but primarily a climbing festival, so it
was a great opportunity to mix these two communities together,
allowing a sort of intercultural exchange, leading to a different
atmosphere than at solely highlining festivals. Finally it was
wonderful that the festival was fairy long, these 11 days allowed you
to try a little bit of everything the site had to offer.
Thanks
to all this I could really feel that Chill, never forcing myself to
do anything, only going on a highline when I was in a good mood for
it. So, although on the second day (the first day it was rainy and
nobody started any action in the crags) I did help in rigging and had
the festival’s opening session on a 40 m highline, for the next
three days I didn’t focus on highlining, instead, enjoyed other
activities; first I went climbing with Romanian friends, then in the
evening I joined the trip to the hot springs near Banja Luka, where I
came up with an idea of rigging a waterline above the river next to
the springs. We did it on the next day with the Romanians. The water
was pretty cold, but bearable, and the experience of going into the
hottest of the springs after a swim in the cold river was a bliss
(although forcing myself to go the other way was very tough). In the
evening I did end up having one session on the freshly rigged 90 m
highline, but it was dark, I was tired, and I had to fix taping on
half the length of the line, so it wasn’t the best of my sessions.
So on the next day I went climbing again, in a stunning sector of
Amfiteater, offering magnificent view on the whole Tijesno Canyon
even on single pitch routes. Sadly the third route I did that day was
my last climb of the festival, because my climbing shoes were old and
they gave up, skin tore off on the front, and so on, to keep on
climbing in them would be painful.
My first opening session on the 40 m highline. OS of course.
Standing on top of the rock in celebration of sending a very nice 6b climbing route
Sessioning a lovely ~ 50 m waterline we rigged next to the hot springs
So,
for the next few days I focused on highlining, but again, no
pressure, usually just one or two sessions per day, and in the
afternoon, once I’d chilled enough in the morning. Because, as I’ve
discovered already a few months ago, the point is not to have a lot
of sessions – the point is to have good sessions. And good sessions
I had, oh yes! On lines of 80-90 meter length I bounced and surfed
stronger than ever before. I had some long exposure stands admiring
the view on the valley, and for the first time I landed a realy cool
trick where from exposure you move one leg so as to stand with legs
crossed, and then make a step sideways with the other one to come
back to normal exposure. On a 90 m of Sonic I nailed a DOUBLE FULL
MAN ON SIGHT: continuous walking for about 350 m (4 lengths of the
line, endings substracted), with some tricks on the third and fourth
length, totally dwarfing all my previous achievements in the category
of crushing lines first try. It’s quite hilarious that despite
trying three times I was totally unable to send the other 90 m
highline. Oh well, every line behaves differently.
Finishing the fourth length on the 90 m highline with a few blind (face covered with hands) steps
But
the icing on the cake was the 180 m long highline “Fisherman and
friends”, which we rigged for the last four days of the festival.
The line was given an extra spirit by the fact that we spent almost a
whole day rigging the line, which included a lot of playing (but with
astonishing efficiency) to make a connection by hand, because
although there was theoretically a drone available, the guy who owned
it was never there when the drone was needed. I sessioned this line
three times. The first time it was totally new school tension (the
line seemed tight enough, but it was on Red Tube (super stretchy
nylon), and together with the stretch it proved super saggy). The
second time the tension was perfect, but the wind was going crazy.
Just imagine that you walk on a line above the abyss, and suddenly
wind pushes you a few meters to the left. And a moment later a few
meters to the right, and then left again. Or even better, up.
Seriously, once I walked on the line and suddenly I was thrown about
3 meters higher, as the gust of the wind blew into the line directly
from below me. Maintaining balance when the wind did such things was
possible (and a fascinating experience, I have to admit), but it was
super exhausting, I crossed the line in bits of about 20-30 meters,
and each one felt more tiring than walking a 100 m highline in normal
conditions.
Epic 180 m highline "Fisherman and friends", on it Nir from Israel who sent it FM thus also setting his new personal best
And here I'm just about to go on the 180 for the third time, for the session I describe in the next paragraph
My
last session went out kinda funny, that day I woke up with a nasty
headache (presumably dehydration), and at first I thought I’m just
gonna chill for the whole day: I worked on my laptop a bit, then just
lied on the spacenet Solvenian guys rigged in a longline bowl next to
the campsite. But then a few friends who were on the spacenet also
started practicing on the longlines, and as my headache started to
pass I began warming up, first juggling, then also walking on the
lines. I felt the slacklining flow again, so I thought maybe I will
go on the highline that day after all. But still no hurry, some more
chilling, having a dinner, going to the spot with 180 m highline late
afternoon actually hoping that there would be one or two people
queued before me. There were three of them, and by the time I got on
the line the Sun was already setting. Also I was wearing a warm
sweater, and I knew that I will get warmed up on the line very
quickly, but I decided to ignore it and didn’t take the sweater
off. So, soon after I started walking I was sweating, and I was
thinking like: no, these are not the conditions for sending the line,
I can barely see the line as it’s slowly getting dark, I’m
wearing too warm clothes, I will not even try to send, I will just see
how far I can walk. Maybe this tape will be the perfect goal. But my
gaze shifted from one tape to another and still I walked on, super
steady, my body showing no inclination to fall off the line. Finally I
ended up facing the rock and walking the very last super steep
meters, until it was too steep and shaky to walk on, where I caught
already in the no falling zone, less than 5 meters from the anchor:
TOTALLY SENT IT!!! Upping my personal best to 150% of it’s previous
value, and landing just 10 m shorter than the Polish highline record!
Mostar
After
the festival I decided to join Martyna, the Polish girl who was at
Drill & Chill for the second time already, in her plan to take a
bus to the famous town of Mostar and stay there for one night (she
had to kill the time before her flight back, and it fit my plans to
go more south as well). Some people discouraged us by saying that
besides seeing the iconic bridge there is not much to do in town, but
we quickly discovered this was far from true. Although the main
feature of the town was the touristy center, for us an equally
prominent sight were some abandoned buildings found even close to the
center, which really pertained that urbexy charm.
We
were particularly attracted by a building with some antic – like
reliefs on the walls, and we explored it at night, we didn’t find
too many interesting items (but somebody’s math notebook with a
love letter stuck between the pages was pretty cute), but we explored
a lot of interesting rooms, riddled by the mystery of what was the
building’s actual use: the outside would suggest a library, the
layout suggested a shopping mall, and the nature of findings in the
basement mixed with numerous bathrooms would suggest a normal living
place. Although there’s probably the most argument for the shopping
mall, we really don’t know, I tried googling “Urbex in Mostar”,
but I only found information about the “Snipers Den”, another
abandoned building we didn’t find the time to explore.
Math notebook with a love letter inside - exactly the kind of stuff I'm most excited about finding in abandoned buildings.
Well, why not :P
The next day we split because I wanted to climb up the hill above Mostar and Martyna did not: my hike was rainy, but really interesting, and the view fairly rewarding
Hitchhike
#2
My
initial plan after Drill & Chill was to go for more highlining in
Bulgaria with one guy who planned to come to the festival as well,
but since his plans changed, and I didn’t want to head back home
immediately, I decided to visit my friends at Kobraland on the south
of Serbia. But for sure I didn’t expect it would take so long to
get there, even from Mostar it was three days of hitchhiking, and I
ended up on a roundabout route all the way through Podgorica and
Pristina. But we’ll get to that.
The
beginning of my hitchhike went pretty bad (again, except worse). I
set off from Mostar pretty late and I had to walk out of town a long
way, in two rides I reached Nevesinje (not a very big step ahead)
where it was raining cats and dogs and getting dark. I ended up
rigging my hammock I a pretty bad spot right next to the road,
blessing again the fact that before the trip I decided to buy a
makeshift tarp last minute. But something went awry and water started
leaking inside my hammock, waking me up in the middle of the night. I
moved to the other side of the hammock which was still dry, hoping I
can survive this, and just when I lied down comfortably something
proved to be wrong with the rig and the whole construction just fell
down. Picking stuff up and helplessly trying to figure out a better
rig, while it was freezing cold and raining all the time… At this
point I was really close to giving up, just trying to find the
fastest way back home, no matter the cost. But I googled my options
and realized that I had almost none, every return route would be
long, complicated, and expensive. So, with no other choice left, I
hid under the roof of a bus station, hang my hammock on a wall to dry, and
slept there until I was woken up by morning buses at 6 a.m. And then
I resumed hitchhiking to Serbia.
This is how my feet looked like after all my stuff got soggy in the nasty adventure with rain at night in Nevesinje
My
route went fairly roundabout, I drifted down south as far as
Podgorica, and it was mostly short rides and once I was picked up by
a bus where I had to pay. Add to this the pain of carrying a heavy
backpack all around, wet socks after the adventure from previous
night, and the threat of not reaching another town before I run out
of my water and food resources, and you might think it was a
nightmare. But it was not! All the time I was passing through most
stunning mountain valleys, facing huge rock formations with potential
for amazing highline spots, the views were so gorgeous that the toil
of travel didn’t feel discouraging at all! And the kindness of some
people I met, take for example the guy on Montenegro border who let
me stay there and asked for the ride on my behalf, getting it for me
in no time <3
On the road, surrounded by gorgeous mountains all the time. These two behind lie right at the border between Bosnia and Montenegro, and they would make for a perfect spot for ~ 1 km highline. What a line would that be, starting from one country and ending in another!
In
Montenegro I got some bigger rides, near a monastery in Morača I was
picked up by the guys who were going to Kosovo, and all the way to
Pristina. I didn’t plan on going through Kosovo, but from Pristina
I would have a direct road to Niš, so it was perfect. But here’s a
funny story: they were a Danish – Palestinian couple who flew to
Montenegro and rent a car at the airport - on the border it turned
out that the car contract has a big stamp “Forbidden border
crossing”. The guard was meticulous enough that they were forced to
retreat and leave me on the border. Anyways, I reached Pristina in
the evening and slept in a kind of park with a national monument,
where at dawn I encountered a guard, who not only allowed me to sleep
on until morning, but also advised a nearby park which is not guarded
and where I can sleep legally next time <3 Just another example of
how extremely nice people you can meet in the Balkans, and even in
Kosovo, which is stereotypically only associated with war.
I
reached Donja Toponica next evening, where I spent an awesome weekend
with my Serbian friends at Kobraland. How I met those people is a
story for another time, for now I’ll just link a video from the
trip during which it happened:
The
last part of the hitchhike went very smooth: in two days I got back
home, where the last ride I got from a gas station south from
Budapest all the way to Poland! I came back exhausted, but also
fascinated, and after one day of rest I was already missing the
adventure and went out to rig a midline in my hometown. I’m looking
forward to more travels like this in the future :-)
Back home thrilled to finally rig a midline in my hometown that I didn't manage to do a year ago